Life in Eswatini

Explore daily life in Eswatini in facts, culture, HIV challenges, rural hardships and traditional practices together with images and video about rural life in Eswatini. The country, with its population of 1.3 million (2025), is the world's last absolute monarchy and one that still recognises Taiwan rather than China. Life in Eswatini is dominated by the fact that the country has one of the world's highest HIV prevalence rates, with approximately 27–28.8% of adults living with the virus, though significant progress has been made in reducing new infections and deaths. The country has achieved the global '95-95-95' HIV target, meaning 95% of people with HIV know their status, 95% of those who know are on treatment, and 95% of those on treatment have a suppressed viral load. However, recent funding cuts threaten to reverse these gains and disrupt vital prevention and treatment programs

The World Health Organisation has even praised Eswatini for its "high level of political commitment" in managing HIV in the country; some of the methods, however, could be deemed extreme. For example, in 2001, the king forbade men from sleeping with teenage girls for the next five years to help stem the spread of the virus, and in 2009, one member of the Swaziland parliament suggested that there should be a compulsory AIDS test for every Swazi and those infected should be marked with a permanent logo on their buttocks. The MP stated, "before having sex with anyone, people will have to check their partners' buttocks before proceeding". This particular idea did not gain widespread favour and was not implemented. Wonder why.

Life expectancy in Eswatini is 64.4 years as of 2025, a significant increase from earlier years, though lower than the global average, and the country is in 126th out of 193 countries in the most recent data based on the life expectancy, literacy, access to knowledge and living standards of a country. This places Eswatini in the medium human development category. Despite this, Eswatini's poverty rate is estimated to be around 59% as of 2023, though figures vary slightly by year and source. This means nearly 60% of the population lives below the national poverty line, highlighting significant economic and social challenges, including high income inequality and unemployment, which has remained static at around 41% of the workforce for well over a decade. Of those who do work, government-delivered services account for 50% of GDP, manufacturing (37%) and forestry and farming 13%.

Just 10.25% of land in Eswatini is arable however 75% of the population is dependent on it for subsistence farming although droughts have also seen a change to farming with ongoing declining harvests leading to those working on the land moving away from growing the Swazi staple crop of maize (introduced there in 1820 from the neighbouring Portuguese colony of Mozambique) to 'cash crops' such as cotton. Other key crops include sugarcane and citrus fruits, alongside other products like tobacco. Others work in textiles, manufacturing, or government jobs. The informal economy also thrives, with roadside markets selling fruits, handmade crafts, and second-hand clothing. However, the manufacturing sector is currently under threat as Eswatini's main export products, textiles and sugar, are losing their markets, with many countries now looking to the east for cheaper imports.

Daily life in Eswatini moves at a slower pace compared to bustling urban centres elsewhere, reflecting the country’s deep-rooted values of community and simplicity. Mornings often begin with the sound of roosters crowing in rural areas, where many families still live in traditional homesteads made from grass, reeds and mud. Breakfast might consist of thick maize porridge, known as liphalishi, or bread with tea, simple yet nourishing. In cities like Mbabane or Manzini, the day starts with commuters heading to work, children in uniforms walking to school, and vendors setting up their stalls along the streets.

Life in Eswatini

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Traditional Life in Eswatini Most Swazi (79%) live in rural communities where running water isn't available for the vast majority, so much of each day is spent travelling to unprotected wells or to parasite-contaminated rivers, where water carriers are filled up once or twice a day, depending on need. These rivers and unprotected wells are the main source of water for most inhabitants in Eswatini, particularly in rural communities where only 42% have access to tap water (rising to 87% in urban areas) and 59% of the population use pit latrines in the absence of any proper facilities, leading to health issues. However, Eswatini's safe water access is improving, with government initiatives and international projects working to increase access to both safe water and sanitation, focusing on areas like the Shiselweni region. Daily life in Eswatini is centred around the traditional homestead, with the kagogo (granny's hut) being the focus of activity and the sibaya (cattle byre) also playing an integral role. Next to the kagogo is the edladeni (main kitchen), which is where the women in the homestead will gather in the early evening to share knowledge with the young girls about the facts of life and the role of women in Eswatini culture and society.

At the same time, the men and boys of the family will gather in their own designated area ~ the esangweni ~ and the father will teach the boys similar facts of life, sex education and the role of the Swazi male. Evenings may include storytelling, where grandparents pass down traditions and folklore. Food brings people together, with meals like sishwala (a stiff porridge) served with meat or vegetables. Weekends might feature traditional dances, weddings, or church services, as Christianity plays a significant role. At the same time, modern influences are visible with young people browsing social media, and enjoying an urban nightlife that includes clubs and bars.

Life in Eswatini Neither the males nor females will enter each other's areas and the girls and boys will sleep in separate huts either side of the homestead. Next to the kagogo is the first wife's traditional beehive hut and her kitchen, then the other wife's huts extending outwards in an arc, each with its own kitchen. One of the reasons the homestead has such a fundamental role in Eswatini life and culture is the belief that the spirits of the family's ancestors reside within the homestead. The Swazi people believe that life continues after death, and their traditional lifestyle is guided by these ancestors.

As such, bringing a bride, an unknown spirit, into the homestead is a major event, and new brides will often be abused by the existing women in fear that she may disturb the future peace of the entire homestead. However, this traditional family lifestyle is being eroded by the breakdown of the impact of HIV. If the younger generation manage to remain infection free themselves in adulthood, they would nonetheless have missed out on education (only one in five of all Swazi children attend secondary school in any event, partially down to the fees), and become homeless or forced to live with others who cannot afford to care for them, placing them at risk of violence and abuse.

There are two main events in Swazi life, the Incwala in December and the Umhlanga in late August / early September. The Incwala is the more important of the two, and most Swazi will converge at the Royal Kraal at Ludzidzini, where they are joined by the king for weeks of dancing to celebrate 'first fruits'. The Umhlanga is the second most important cultural ceremony where uncommitted girls pay homage to the king and queen mother.

The video (above, left) provides further insights into daily life in Eswatini.